Feeding Question

[Cloudk]

I've had my juvinile beardie, Typhoon, for around 3 months now (total body length is about 8.5in). My first lizard. Mostly been feeding him live crickets, dusted with calcium w/ D3 added, because the zilla hood i have takes a certain bulb that doesn't have a uvb option anymore. Stupid i know, but he's thriving so far. My situation will soon require me to cut down on the live crickets, (availblity). So time to start on prepared diets. Trying Flukers Juvenile Bearded Dragon Diet. Tried not feeding him live crickets for two days, offered pellets, lettuice, and freeze dried crickets instead. Loves lettuice and gobbles it down faster than live crickets. Weirdo. Pellets don't move so i wasn't expecting him to go right after them. After a few days i would assume he'd get hungry enough to try em out. Well, no luck. Was suggested to put something that smells good on them, tried organic orange juice. Doesn't seem to help. I decided to try a salad. Today i put lettice on bottom, covered it w/: a few freeze dried crickets, strawberries, some pellets coated in all natural, no sugar added, strawberry/orange drink w/ chunks of fruit, to soften them up and make em smell good. Well... whats he do? Picks through it all just to get the lettuice! Some of the pellets were goopy and was on the lettuice, and he still ate them. SO my question: How on earth can i get my little man to eat pellets? Been trying for about a week. Any suggestions on making it more appealing to him? Spicific scents? If you have any husbandry suggestions would be welcome too! His temp is 110 on basking space, cooler side is 90 or so. He likes to hang out on the warmer side. Bedding is millet, the only thing i trust. Thanks for reading my speech.

[perfectly_flawed]

D3 isn't intended to take the place of a good UVB light, but to work along with it for proper calcium absorbtion. Without the UVB, he can't process the D3, so he also isn't processing the calcium properly. Hoods aren't a great idea for these guys. They require a hot surface temp, and hoods are designed to provide air temp. You're much better off using a dome fixture for his heat and a separate florescent fixture for a reptiSUN 10 tube bulb for his UVB needs.
All processed foods should be avoided. Dragons absolutely need live food to remail healthy both physically and mentally. The prepared foods are never as healthy of a diet, either. Crickets and other healthy feeders can be purchased online for much less than a pet store, and they're always available.
Lettuce should not be fed in any form. There's very little nutrition and it can act as a laxative, which leads to dehydration and other health issues. Stick with collards, mustard greens, turnip greens, or escarole for healthier choices for your dragon.
Not feeding him live foods at his age will result in long term, and often fatal, health issues. They absolutely must have the protien as they're growing. Avoid the "orange drink". Citrus is extremely hard on them. All fruits should be given no more than once or twice a week in small amounts.
The millet is also not a good choice. It's unsanitary at best, and an impaction risk at worst. Textured ceramic tile, nonadhesive shelf liner, reptile carpet, paper towels, or newspaper are all cleaner and safer substrates.

[JackReacher]

I soak the pellets in water to soften them up and to get water into him.

[Beardo]

I use a vibrating food dish for the pellets, and it works great. There is no substitue for live food though.

[ewstokes]

I feed them all by hand. It helps them get used to me and become more personal